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An Ode to Petri

c6bf5 1x1.trans An Ode to Petri

c6bf5 blog An Ode to Petri

In gritty 1980s London, John Galliano was wrapping up his studies at Central Saint Martins, Leigh Bowery was hosting pansexual club nights, and Nick Logan launched The Face. It was a time of unencumbered experimentation—sartorial and otherwise. And it was during this era that stylist Ray Petri—the man responsible for the anti-glam Buffalo movement—emerged on the scene. Petri (formerly Petrie) laid the bricks for the eclectic British fashion scene of today. His editorials, which set the tone in magazines such as Arena, i-D, and the above-mentioned The Face, pictured rough London teens in unexpected combinations of high fashion, tough workwear, athletic clothes, underwear, vintage, and beyond. He created not only a look but an ideology that was universally recognizable. And now, the iconoclast—who died of AIDS in 1989—is getting a magazine named after him.

 

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c6bf5 Dhakas Response An Ode to Petri

Founded by Zadrian Smith—a London-based writer, stylist, and producer who’s worked with such publications as Tank, Love, GQ Style and British VoguePETRI(E) Inventory 65 (the stylist would have turned 65 this year—published annually, the numbers will bump up accordingly) seeks to breathe new life into Petri’s legacy. Aiming to channel the man’s uncompromising, unfiltered vision, PETRI(E)’s editorial array extends far beyond fashion. The debut issue offers an ode to Petri by British Vogue’s Francesca Burns, a photo essay by Saiful Huq Omi that lenses the hope and strife within Bangladesh megalopolis, Dhaka (above), and an essay by Valerie Steele on her upcoming exhibition, Queer History. “I think there’s a vulnerability and honesty to each piece that I hope readers will appreciate,” Smith told Style.com. Also included is an editorial titled “Melody of Caged Birds,” (above, right) which, featuring Meadham Kirchhoff’s designs, serves as a visual antidote to the suppression of raw creative impulse. “Don’t get me wrong,” said Smith, “I know fashion is a business, but there needs to be a greater balance of business and creativity. At this rate, fashion will bleed itself of organic artistry.”

 

PETRI(E) Inventory 65 launches on May 20, and is available for preorder here

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WATCH Kate Bosworth Showcase Topshop’s Festival Collection In The Campaign Video

It was only a matter of hours ago that Topshop tantalised us with a teaser of their new festival collection and AT LAST we can reveal the full details, so listen up. The collection is a celebration of the British attitude around festival style and we can’t think of a better brand to capture that energy and irreverent spirit.

You can check out the campaign images in the gallery above and, yes, as you may have guessed, Kate Bosworth is the star of the show. The actress and all-round style icon worked with Toppers for their Christmas campaign – singing her little heart out, no less – and you’ll remember when Grazia Daily met her at London Fashion Week in February, Bozzy revealed she’s been working on a secret project at Topshop HQ. And now we can see the fruits of her labour!

3a656 Screen shot 2013 05 14 at 21.20.00 WATCH Kate Bosworth Showcase Topshops Festival Collection In The Campaign Video

Kate Bosworth gave us a sneak preview of Topshop’s festival collection at Coachella

The Topshop in house design team worked with Kate to create the perfect festie wardrobe including 16 signature pieces based on her personal style. As you know, K-Bos road tested some of these looks at Coachella festival when she won our sartorial hearts, including a laser-cut top and matching scalloped-edged shorts as well as a black dress with a sheer overlay under a boho-tastic gilet teamed with black buckled boots.

‘Kate and I were discussing the summer trends and how she had been one of our inspirations, she was here working with us on our Christmas project – the next day Kate came in with all these incredible images and references and shared what her ultimate festival outfits looked like,’ says Kate Phelan, Topshop Creative Director. ‘It is an organic extension of Kate’s fashion sense aligned with the Topshop brand. We think that’s fresh and exciting.’ As do we!

517de Kate Bosworth For Topshop s Festival Collection WATCH Kate Bosworth Showcase Topshops Festival Collection In The Campaign Video

And Ms Bosworth? ‘I’ve always had a love of fashion,’ Kate reveals. ‘To gain learning experience from the Topshop design team has been a great opportunity for me. Our intent was to create fresh, wearable, and effortless festival pieces. I am proud of our work together and I adore these pieces, they fit perfectly with the mood of the ‘Topshop Festival’ collection.’

You can now watch the full film starring Kate and directed by her fiancee Michael Polish (naturally). It’s fittingly called ‘The Road to Coachella’ and California’s Mono Lake makes the perfect backdrop. So pull on your floral headbands and click play below…

EXCLUSIVE: Bosworth and Topshop Show Festivalgoers How It’s Done

 

Coachella might have come and gone, but across the pond, festival season is just getting started. And if musical meet-ups such as Glastonbury and Lovebox are any indication, no one knows quite how to combine a muddy field, nonstop tunes, and bohemian threads like the English. In celebration of the Brits’ summer concert savvy, Topshop is releasing a full-fledged festival-themed collection. Available starting Friday, the sixteen-piece range pulled inspiration from Coachella veteran Kate Bosworth, who took some of the wares for a spin while in Indio last month. Topshop’s muse also showcases the line’s plaid shirt, denim cutoffs, and simple sundresses while dancing around the desert in a Michael Polish-lensed film titled The Road to Coachella. Ranging from $20 to $400, the capsule hits stores alongside a larger music-themed initiative, comprising Topshop playlists, an interactive worldwide festival guide on the brand’s Web site, and a series of secret international pop-up gigs featuring established and emerging artists alike. Watch the film’s debut (above) and take a first look at Topshop’s festival duds (below) here, exclusively on Style.com.

 

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87d7f FESTIVAL CAMPAIGN STILL10 EXCLUSIVE: Bosworth and Topshop Show Festivalgoers How It’s Done

87d7f 1x1.trans EXCLUSIVE: Bosworth and Topshop Show Festivalgoers How It’s Done

87d7f FESTIVAL CAMPAIGN STILL6 EXCLUSIVE: Bosworth and Topshop Show Festivalgoers How It’s Done

 

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6 Good Examples Of Harrington Jacket Wearers (Clue: Not Chris Huhne)

I once fell in love with a man in a Harrington jacket. I fell straight out of love with him the moment he introduced himself as ‘an urban poet’, but remained in love with the jacket for the best part of a week.

I even went as far as buying one myself. It is black, too big, smells of meat and liquorice and has chewing gum wedged inexplicably under the left armpit, but it’s an original – made by Baracuta, who started making them in the 1930s – and cost me £14 from a charity shop, so who’s the real winner.

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Chris Huhne in a Harrington jacket? Help!

So imagine my horror when Chris Huhne – yes, Chris Huhne, Chris Huhne, the same Chris Huhne who was jailed for asking his then wife to take his speeding points in 2003, that Chris Huhne – emerged this week from his toe-dip of a sentence inside wearing a navy Harrington? Yes, I went back to Scope.

The appearance of Mr Huhne probably marks the end of the Harrington jacket. So with that in mind, here are my top 6 Harrington (or Harrington-esque) examples of all time

 1. Steve McQueen

Obvs

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2. Andrew Garfield

No lining. ‘Leftfield’

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3. Kristen Stewart

Excellent appropriation

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4. Elvis

Obvs, part 2

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5. Daniel Craig

Screensaver!

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6. Martin Freeman

Paisley. Fun!

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The Sweet Spot

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9266e sweetly inked1 The Sweet Spot“We always felt like there was a huge gap between brands like La Perla and brands like Victoria’s Secret,” says Monica Paganucci, the creative director of new intimates label Sweetly Inked, which launches tomorrow exclusively online. A meeting of minds, including NYC creative agency Playworkgroup, stylist Samira Nasr, and creative directors Paganucci and Rico and Michelle Garcia, Sweetly Inked’s eleven-piece all-black range is a play on tattoos. “The inspiration [for the initial collection] was to create a line that would highlight where most people would have artwork on their bodies. That inspired the theme of transparency,” Paganucci continued, noting that texture was a key element in the range. The designers will focus on one collection a year, but they plan to supplement their signature fits and cuts with limited-edition wares. “You should always be able to go back and find your favorite bra,” Paganucci reasons, albeit one with seductive sheer paneling and strategically placed exposure. As Sweetly Inked grows, so too will the collection—loungewear is set for a Fall launch.

Sweetly Inked will be available from tomorrow exclusively at www.sweetlyinked.com.

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Need Some Summer Shoes? Get 25% Off At Office With The New Issue Of Grazia!

Don’t miss snapping up a copy of this week’s issue of Grazia (out tomorrow) for an amazing 25% off summer shoes at Office for one week only. Despite the occasional down pour and cloudy skies, it’s time to get into summer footwear mode with Office’s array of summer boots, sandals and pretty flats. If you’re heading to a festival a new pair of gladiator sandals might be the perfect purchase, or perhaps a tough buckle boot to team with denim shorts and dresses a like will be super versatile. Summer weddings have already begun so a fabulous bejewelled flat or sexy sandal are a must. But what to buy when there are so many to choose from? Check out the full summer collection available in store or online by clicking here but in the meantime we’ve hot-picked our top 10 styles to shop now and put them all in the gallery above.

Terms and conditions: This promotion entitles the customer to 25% off a single transaction valid on ladies’ full-priced products only. Brands are excluded from this offer. Valid in all Office stores 14-20 May 2013. Concessions are excluded. This discount cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer or promotion and is non-transferable. Offer not valid when purchasing gift cards. The discount is valid in-store only.

Top of the Class: Inside Parsons’ PH² Exhibition

Designer update

May 13, 2013  7:13 pm

58611 parsonsa Top of the Class: Inside Parsons’ PH² ExhibitionIf you’ve been following our coverage of the Parsons/Kering competition, you’re well aware that college graduation is nigh. But it’s not just Parsons’ BFA students who are presenting their final collections. Tomorrow, the second graduating class from the school’s MFA Fashion Design and Society program will unveil their wares at PH², an exhibition whose opening will be cohosted by Diane von Furstenberg. Yesterday, professor Shelley Fox and the best of the eighteen graduates gave Style.com a first look at their progressive work. “What impressed me was their persistence not to give up, to experiment, and to push themselves in a way they didn’t know they were capable of,” said Fox of the graduates, who will reveal their complete lineups during a show at New York fashion week in September. This year, Fox put a particular emphasis on pushing the students to create their own fabrics. “That’s one way you can really define yourself and set yourself apart from other designers,” she said.

Several of the grads took this to the extreme, like knitwear designer Hannah Jenkinson (above, left). Hailing from the UK, the 29-year-old pulled inspiration from the minimal clothes of the Amish, Mennonites, and nuns, as well as athletic wear. “But really,” she notes, “the collection was driven by technique and process; by [exploring] the boundaries of what makes something knitwear.” Take, for instance, her transparent jumper, in which she trapped strands of white yarn between two layers of fusing material. Other looks were crafted from rubber or repurposed vintage pieces. Chunky laces—like the ones seen on her sheer track pants or feminine skirts, were painstakingly hand-embroidered. “Some of [the pieces] took eight days.”

Melitta Baumeister, a 27-year-old German designer, took a new-wave approach to fabrication (above, right). She would finish a fabric garment, make a mold, and then recast it in silicone or foam. The result was classic clothing—like a white oxford shirt, a bomber, or a lace dress—reinvented in what felt like rubber. The collection, she explained, has to do with “controlling the uncontrollable, materializing liquid, and preserving a moment of movement in the garment.” The digital age affected her designs as well. “Now, with things like Instagram, capturing an image of a moment or a memory is almost more important than the memory itself.”

58611 parsonsb Top of the Class: Inside Parsons’ PH² ExhibitionReality—a concept oft overlooked by graduate students—was a focus for a number of this year’s designers, such as Jia Hua (above, left). “For me, the most important thing is for [clothes] to be easy and wearable,” said the 25-year-old Beijing native. “If it can only be hung in a museum, I think that’s a little sad.” She approached real-world clothes with a light hand, though. Her electric, glitter-dusted looks, which pulled influences from athletic garments and artists Mickalene Thomas, Caroline Larsen, and Dan Flavin, mixed couture details with a streetwear spirit. “I used the cheapest mesh I could find,” she laughed. Boasting hand-stitching, -weaving, and -cording, her garments, some of which had what looked like fine black chiffon stretched over some of their neon layers, were anything but.

Twenty-four-year-old Long Beach, California native Amelia Lindquist (below) wove childhood memories into her denim collection, which featured jackets, tops, and pants with literal tan lines. The emotional connection she has to her father’s faded jeans—and, of course, sunny California days—was a starting point. The wares, however, felt less nostalgic, and more forward-thinking and fun. An oversize bonded-denim coat and a denim tee with bleached breasts, which she said was her version of a “bikini shirt,” were particularly clever.58611 amelia lindquist Top of the Class: Inside Parsons’ PH² Exhibition

Polish-born Piotrek Panszczyk (above, right), who worked with Hannah MacGibbon at Chloé before joining the course, explored the meaning of luxury in his final collection. His racks consisted of meticulously draped, bonded jersey T-shirts, structured alpaca and velvet sweatpants that had been shaved down and spray-painted to create a snakeskin pattern, and a jersey shawl printed with photocopies of a fur coat he had been wearing all winter. Postgraduation, the designer hopes to—eventually—break out on his own in New York. “There’s a lot happening here. The creativity is amazing, but in the end, it’s all about the benjamins. I think we can push [the creativity] a little bit further,” he said.

It would seem that big industry players are taking note of the designers’ gusto. Fox reports that François-Henri Pinault paid a visit to the studio and was particularly impressed by the students’ fabric innovation (teacher knows best!). What’s more is that Uniqlo and Swarovski have each given scholarships to help future students (the Diller-von Furstenberg Family Foundation has also lent its financial support). But, Fox explains, it’s ultimately the students who help themselves. “They really challenge themselves, and they challenge each other. They engage with one another, they push each other further, and I think they encourage each other, too.”

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Katharine K. Zarrella

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tags: Amelia Lindquist, Diane von Furstenberg, Francois-Henri Pinault, Hannah Jenkinson, Jia Hua, Melitta Baumeister, Parsons, Piotrek Panszczyk, Shelley Fox


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Jessie J Looked Great On The Voice Last Night: Who Was Her Dress By? A New Designer Called Basharatyan V

188f6 jessie j basharatyan v Jessie J Looked Great On The Voice Last Night: Who Was Her Dress By? A New Designer Called Basharatyan V

Have you ever heard of Veronica Basharatyan? Us neither until we had to investigate where Jessie J had found the dress she chose for last night’s episode of The Voice. The nude ribbon-knitted mini dress looked divine on the singer/judge – and made for a refreshing choice in contrast to the fierce amounts of black leather and digital prints she’d usually opt for. But then again, JJ did ditch her stylist last year in an attempt girly-up her wardrobe and soften her image. Consider the goal achieved, lady: along with berry red lips and bouncy girls, Jessie J looked every inch the Hollywood starlet.

So, back to Veronica. Who is she? And where did she come from? Well, she’s an Economics student-turned-Central St Martins-turned-London-College-Of-Fashion graduate who specialised in textile design. She’s of Armenian-Balkarian heritage and was born in Moscow, where she currently runs her studio.

Veronica set up her label Basharatyan V while she was studying and has so far presented three ready to wear collections as well as working on a bespoke service. From Italian Vogue to Russian Grazia, international recognition is building apace, and it’s no wonder with the S/S’13 offering: Veronica’s pastel palette, textural surface detailing and flattering, simple lines are just right for attracting the pretty popstrel crowd.

Veronica is currently planning to open up another studio in London (maybe Jessie needs more clothes made?) but until then you won’t have to trek to Moscow to get a slice of the fashion action, because Basharatyan V has an online shop.

What will Jessie J wear for tonight’s second battle round? We hope it’s another newbie name…

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