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Jo Loves Mango Fragrance Collection Review

Jo Loves Mango Fragrance Collection Review

Posted on Friday, May 17, 2013 · 1 Comment 

I was very excited about the opportunity to try Jo Malone’s (the lady, not the brand) fragrance creations which are a part of her new brand JO LOVES.

So far there are eight scents to choose from and I have them all. I have been wearing them for some time now, thinking about the associations I have and asking other people about their thoughts… So it’s time to share my experinece and I will start with the Mango Collection.

e1738 Jo Loves Mango Fragrance Collection Review Jo Loves Mango Fragrance Collection Review

Mango Nectar

It is a sweet fruity and juicy fragrance; it definitely smells like mango and apricots, I almost want to eat it. It makes me think of warm summer days, white dresses, long walks near the river and tasty deserts. I’d say this would be a great fit for young dreamy girls or ladies that like sweet fruity scents.

  • Top: Bitter Orange, Pink Grapefruit, Mango Leaf
  • Heart: Mango Nectar, Apricot Blossom
  • Base: Jasmine, Musk

A Shot Of Oud Over Mango

I really loved this one and got a lot of compliments when I was wearing it. It is warm and feminine fragrance. I did not try that many oud fragrances, but this one is my favourite so far. It is not as sweet, as Mango Nectar but you can still smell the mango pretty clearly. At the same time it’s comforting and sensual, in a way. It is just perfectly balanced, well done, Jo! I’ll probably have to get a bottle, as a treat for myself later.

  • Top: Mango, Black Pepper
  • Heart: Freesia
  • Base: Oud Wood Accord

864b2 Jo Loves Mango Fragrance Collection Review range Jo Loves Mango Fragrance Collection Review

A Shot Of Thai Lime Over Mango

I’d think that this scent could work as a unisex one. Of course, not all men would like it, as you can definitely smell mango but I can picture it on a young confident boy in his 20’s. In fact, I did ask my younger brother to try it and, although he was unsure about it at first, liked it in the end. So did his friends (think boys and girls 20-25). I actually just read the Jo herself describes the scent as “clean and cologne-like”.

I quite like it on myself, as well, Lime notes add zesty and uplifting touch to the scent, I loved using it in the mornings, especially, and for a pick-me-up refreshments during the day.

  • Top: Mango, Kaffir Lime, Black Pepper
  • Heart: Freesia, Mint Leaves
  • Base: White Thyme Absolute, Vetiver

So, as you can see, I really like all three fragrances, they are right up my street. The composition is not very complicated and overpowering (which I hate in some perfumes) but at the same time sophisticated and not boring. I only wish the scent would stay on my skin for a longer time.

I will definitely write about other five fragrances in the future, as well. So stay tuned!

The price is £45/£95 for 30ml/100ml and you can get all the products from Jo Loves website, they do ship to different counties, too.

 

Rouge Bunny Rouge Fragrance Collection Review

  • Calvin Klein Downtown

    Calvin Klein is launching the new fragrance for women Downtown which arrives in selective stores in Summer 2013 and in the USA in September. President of Coty Prestige Jean Mortier said the following on the occasion of launching the new perfume: “Calvin Klein is our largest perfume business and is very important for us. Our goal is to create another fragrance for women in a strategic way and to make it as popular as Euphoria or even more popular that it.”

    d3901 o.20247 Calvin Klein Downtown

    Downtown aims at a younger population which prefers sweet fragrances. The perfume is constructed as floral-woody and it was created by perfumer Ann Gottlieb of Givaudan. The composition opens in a foamy and dashy way, with notes of Italian lemon, bergamot, Tunisian neroli, green pear and aquatic plum. The heart incorporates gentle gardenia petals combined with pink pepper and violet leaves on a base of cedar from Texas, incense, vetiver and velvety musk

    d3901 o.20248 Calvin Klein Downtown

    CALVIN KLEIN DOWNTOWN

    Italian lemon, bergamot, Tunisian neroli, green pear, plum
    gardenia petals, pink pepper, violet leaves
    Texan cedar, incense, vetiver, musk

    Downtown arrives in four sizes of flacons:  0.33 oz. roller ball for $19, 1 oz. for $45, 1.7 oz. for $65 and 3.0 oz. for $80, and will be available as EDP. Besides the perfume, the collection also includes 6.7 oz. body lotion at the price of $43; 6.7 oz. body bath for $38, and 5 oz. body mist-body fragrance for  $27, as announced by wwd.  Actress Rooney Mara was selected as the face of the campaign, which will include TV clips directed by David Fincher and a photo campaign photographed by Jean-Baptiste Mondino.

     

    d3901 o 6 Calvin Klein Downtown   

    Author: Sandra Raičević Petrović
    (
    sandrina_bambina)

       Fragrantica Executive Editor, Writer and Designer

    [email protected]

     

     

     

    Translation: Ivana (Ina_Mo)


     

    Toni Gard Mint Man

    4f77e mm.18401 Toni Gard Mint ManParfums 137
    Myrte

    4f77e mm.18400 Toni Gard Mint ManParfums 137
    Immortelle

    4f77e mm.18399 Toni Gard Mint ManParfums 137
    Spearmint

    4f77e mm.18398 Toni Gard Mint ManParfums 137
    Olibanum

    4f77e mm.18397 Toni Gard Mint ManParfums 137
    Osmanthus

    4f77e mm.18396 Toni Gard Mint ManParfums 137
    Bigarade

    77904 mm.18395 Toni Gard Mint ManToni Gard
    Mint Man

    77904 mm.18394 Toni Gard Mint ManRobert Piguet
    Alameda

    77904 mm.18393 Toni Gard Mint ManMemo
    Irish Leather

    77904 mm.18392 Toni Gard Mint ManCalvin Klein
    Downtown

    77904 mm.18391 Toni Gard Mint ManOlympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes
    Tropic of Capricorn

    77904 mm.18390 Toni Gard Mint ManOlympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes
    Seattle Chocolate

    77904 mm.18389 Toni Gard Mint ManOlympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes
    California Chocolate

    77904 mm.18388 Toni Gard Mint ManOlympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes
    Café V

    77904 mm.18387 Toni Gard Mint ManOlympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes
    Sonnet XVII

    77904 mm.18386 Toni Gard Mint ManJimmy Choo
    Jimmy Choo Exotic

    77904 mm.18385 Toni Gard Mint ManHugo Boss
    Boss Jour Pour Femme

    db207 mm.18384 Toni Gard Mint ManGivenchy
    Ange ou Demon Le Secret Feather Edition

    db207 mm.18383 Toni Gard Mint ManLe Labo
    Ylang 49

    db207 mm.18382 Toni Gard Mint ManLe Labo
    Lys 41

    db207 mm.18381 Toni Gard Mint ManJovoy Paris
    Lys Epona

    db207 mm.18380 Toni Gard Mint ManDemeter Fragrance
    First Response – Boston

    db207 mm.18379 Toni Gard Mint ManDemeter Fragrance
    Sunshine

    db207 mm.18378 Toni Gard Mint ManNew Yorker
    New Yorker Style Up for Him

    db207 mm.18377 Toni Gard Mint ManNew Yorker
    New Yorker Style Up for Her

    db207 mm.18376 Toni Gard Mint ManDurance de Provence
    Coquelicot – Poppy

    db207 mm.18375 Toni Gard Mint ManDurance de Provence
    Zeste de Vétiver

    db207 mm.18374 Toni Gard Mint ManDemeter Fragrance
    Rice Paddy

    db207 mm.18373 Toni Gard Mint ManYves Saint Laurent
    L’Homme Libre Cologne Tonic

    273fc mm.18372 Toni Gard Mint ManAvon
    Musk Wood

    New Releases from Olympic Orchids

    15206 mm.18401 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsParfums 137
    Myrte

    15206 mm.18400 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsParfums 137
    Immortelle

    15206 mm.18399 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsParfums 137
    Spearmint

    15206 mm.18398 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsParfums 137
    Olibanum

    15206 mm.18397 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsParfums 137
    Osmanthus

    15206 mm.18396 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsParfums 137
    Bigarade

    15206 mm.18395 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsToni Gard
    Mint Man

    15206 mm.18394 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsRobert Piguet
    Alameda

    5e36d mm.18393 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsMemo
    Irish Leather

    5e36d mm.18392 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsCalvin Klein
    Downtown

    5e36d mm.18391 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsOlympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes
    Tropic of Capricorn

    5e36d mm.18390 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsOlympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes
    Seattle Chocolate

    5e36d mm.18389 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsOlympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes
    California Chocolate

    5e36d mm.18388 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsOlympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes
    Café V

    5e36d mm.18387 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsOlympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes
    Sonnet XVII

    5e36d mm.18386 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsJimmy Choo
    Jimmy Choo Exotic

    5e36d mm.18385 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsHugo Boss
    Boss Jour Pour Femme

    5e36d mm.18384 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsGivenchy
    Ange ou Demon Le Secret Feather Edition

    5e36d mm.18383 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsLe Labo
    Ylang 49

    5e36d mm.18382 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsLe Labo
    Lys 41

    5e36d mm.18381 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsJovoy Paris
    Lys Epona

    5e36d mm.18380 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsDemeter Fragrance
    First Response – Boston

    5e36d mm.18379 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsDemeter Fragrance
    Sunshine

    bfe21 mm.18378 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsNew Yorker
    New Yorker Style Up for Him

    bfe21 mm.18377 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsNew Yorker
    New Yorker Style Up for Her

    bfe21 mm.18376 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsDurance de Provence
    Coquelicot – Poppy

    bfe21 mm.18375 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsDurance de Provence
    Zeste de Vétiver

    bfe21 mm.18374 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsDemeter Fragrance
    Rice Paddy

    bfe21 mm.18373 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsYves Saint Laurent
    L’Homme Libre Cologne Tonic

    bfe21 mm.18372 New Releases from Olympic OrchidsAvon
    Musk Wood

    L’Occitane Collection De Grasse Fragrance Collection

    L’Occitane Collection De Grasse Fragrance Collection

    Posted on Friday, May 17, 2013 · Leave a Comment 

    L’Occitane released De Grasse Fragrance Collection which consists of four 75ml Eau de Toilette scents, £49 each. Created by Karine Dubreuil.

    5b00b LOccitane Collection De Grasse Fragrance Collection L’Occitane Collection De Grasse Fragrance Collection

    Jasmine Bergamot

    “Day and Night”, jasmine floral family.

    • Top notes: mandarin orange, BERGAMOT
    • Heart notes: JASMINE, lemon leaves
    • Base notes: sandalwood, cedar

     Vanille Narcisse

    “Brazen Happiness”, vanilla oriental family.

    • Top notes: blackcurrant, bergamot
    • Heart notes: NARCISSUS, gardenia
    • Base notes: VANILLA, tonka bean

    5b00b LOccitane Collection De Grasse Fragrance Collection1 L’Occitane Collection De Grasse Fragrance Collection

    Magnolia Mure

    “A Mysterious Coincidence”,  fruity chypre family.

    • Top notes: bergamot, BLACKBERRY
    • Heart notes: MAGNOLIA, rose
    • Base notes: patchouli, moss

     Thé Vert Bigarade

    “Shared Memories”, aromatic citrus family

    • Top notes: orange, BITTER ORANGE
    • Heart notes: GREEN TEA, yerba mate
    • Base notes: cedar, thyme, musk

     

    Rouge Bunny Rouge Fragrance Collection Review

  • Jimmy Choo Exotic

    49305 mm.18386 Jimmy Choo ExoticJimmy Choo
    Jimmy Choo Exotic

    49305 mm.18385 Jimmy Choo ExoticHugo Boss
    Boss Jour Pour Femme

    49305 mm.18384 Jimmy Choo ExoticGivenchy
    Ange ou Demon Le Secret Feather Edition

    49305 mm.18383 Jimmy Choo ExoticLe Labo
    Ylang 49

    49305 mm.18382 Jimmy Choo ExoticLe Labo
    Lys 41

    49305 mm.18381 Jimmy Choo ExoticJovoy Paris
    Lys Epona

    49305 mm.18380 Jimmy Choo ExoticDemeter Fragrance
    First Response – Boston

    49305 mm.18379 Jimmy Choo ExoticDemeter Fragrance
    Sunshine

    49305 mm.18378 Jimmy Choo ExoticNew Yorker
    New Yorker Style Up for Him

    49305 mm.18377 Jimmy Choo ExoticNew Yorker
    New Yorker Style Up for Her

    b9e55 mm.18376 Jimmy Choo ExoticDurance de Provence
    Coquelicot – Poppy

    b9e55 mm.18375 Jimmy Choo ExoticDurance de Provence
    Zeste de Vétiver

    b9e55 mm.18374 Jimmy Choo ExoticDemeter Fragrance
    Rice Paddy

    b9e55 mm.18373 Jimmy Choo ExoticYves Saint Laurent
    L’Homme Libre Cologne Tonic

    b9e55 mm.18372 Jimmy Choo ExoticAvon
    Musk Wood

    b9e55 mm.18371 Jimmy Choo ExoticYves Saint Laurent
    Noble Leather

    b9e55 mm.18370 Jimmy Choo ExoticYves Saint Laurent
    Majestic Rose

    b9e55 mm.18369 Jimmy Choo ExoticYves Saint Laurent
    Supreme Bouquet

    b9e55 mm.18368 Jimmy Choo ExoticComme des Garcons
    Black

    b9e55 mm.18367 Jimmy Choo ExoticPierre Cardin
    Style

    b9e55 mm.18366 Jimmy Choo ExoticPierre Cardin
    Style for Women

    b9e55 mm.18365 Jimmy Choo ExoticEstée Lauder
    Pleasures Pop

    b9e55 mm.18364 Jimmy Choo ExoticLaura Mercier
    Eau Gourmande Ambre Vanille

    b9e55 mm.18363 Jimmy Choo ExoticLaura Mercier
    Lumiere D’Ambre

    b9e55 mm.18362 Jimmy Choo ExoticDS Durga
    Isle Ryder

    70173 mm.18361 Jimmy Choo ExoticDS Durga
    Bitter Rose, Broken Spear

    70173 mm.18360 Jimmy Choo ExoticDS Durga
    Pale Grey Mountain, Small Black Lake

    70173 mm.18359 Jimmy Choo ExoticOdin
    No 10 Roam

    70173 mm.18358 Jimmy Choo ExoticTed Lapidus
    White Soul Gold Diamonds

    70173 mm.18357 Jimmy Choo ExoticTom Daxon
    Resin Sacra

    Jimmy Choo Exotic

    859f6 mm.18386 Jimmy Choo ExoticJimmy Choo
    Jimmy Choo Exotic

    859f6 mm.18385 Jimmy Choo ExoticHugo Boss
    Boss Jour Pour Femme

    859f6 mm.18384 Jimmy Choo ExoticGivenchy
    Ange ou Demon Le Secret Feather Edition

    859f6 mm.18383 Jimmy Choo ExoticLe Labo
    Ylang 49

    04082 mm.18382 Jimmy Choo ExoticLe Labo
    Lys 41

    04082 mm.18381 Jimmy Choo ExoticJovoy Paris
    Lys Epona

    04082 mm.18380 Jimmy Choo ExoticDemeter Fragrance
    First Response – Boston

    04082 mm.18379 Jimmy Choo ExoticDemeter Fragrance
    Sunshine

    04082 mm.18378 Jimmy Choo ExoticNew Yorker
    New Yorker Style Up for Him

    04082 mm.18377 Jimmy Choo ExoticNew Yorker
    New Yorker Style Up for Her

    04082 mm.18376 Jimmy Choo ExoticDurance de Provence
    Coquelicot – Poppy

    04082 mm.18375 Jimmy Choo ExoticDurance de Provence
    Zeste de Vétiver

    04082 mm.18374 Jimmy Choo ExoticDemeter Fragrance
    Rice Paddy

    04082 mm.18373 Jimmy Choo ExoticYves Saint Laurent
    L’Homme Libre Cologne Tonic

    04082 mm.18372 Jimmy Choo ExoticAvon
    Musk Wood

    04082 mm.18371 Jimmy Choo ExoticYves Saint Laurent
    Noble Leather

    04082 mm.18370 Jimmy Choo ExoticYves Saint Laurent
    Majestic Rose

    04082 mm.18369 Jimmy Choo ExoticYves Saint Laurent
    Supreme Bouquet

    04082 mm.18368 Jimmy Choo ExoticComme des Garcons
    Black

    5ad5c mm.18367 Jimmy Choo ExoticPierre Cardin
    Style

    5ad5c mm.18366 Jimmy Choo ExoticPierre Cardin
    Style for Women

    5ad5c mm.18365 Jimmy Choo ExoticEstée Lauder
    Pleasures Pop

    5ad5c mm.18364 Jimmy Choo ExoticLaura Mercier
    Eau Gourmande Ambre Vanille

    5ad5c mm.18363 Jimmy Choo ExoticLaura Mercier
    Lumiere D’Ambre

    5ad5c mm.18362 Jimmy Choo ExoticDS Durga
    Isle Ryder

    5ad5c mm.18361 Jimmy Choo ExoticDS Durga
    Bitter Rose, Broken Spear

    5ad5c mm.18360 Jimmy Choo ExoticDS Durga
    Pale Grey Mountain, Small Black Lake

    5ad5c mm.18359 Jimmy Choo ExoticOdin
    No 10 Roam

    5ad5c mm.18358 Jimmy Choo ExoticTed Lapidus
    White Soul Gold Diamonds

    5ad5c mm.18357 Jimmy Choo ExoticTom Daxon
    Resin Sacra

    Clarins One Step Gentle Exfoliating Cleanser Review

    Clarins One Step Gentle Exfoliating Cleanser Review

    Posted on Wednesday, May 15, 2013 · 1 Comment 

    Today I want to tell you about the Clarins One Step Gentle Exfoliating Cleanser which was the part of this set that I’ve bought for myself as a post-holidays treat.

    Since it’s a part of the Clarins’ girls top 5 products, I had high expectations and it did not disappoint.

    ca557 Clarins One Step Gentle Exfoliating Cleanser Review Clarins One Step Gentle Exfoliating Cleanser Review

    It is basically a face wash and scrub two-in-one which means that you do your cleansing in only one step, as the name suggests.

    I find that it does a great job: removes all traces of makeup and cleanses the skin really well, without drying it out ( I have very dry skin and I could not believe that I did not have that ”tight” feeling afterwards). Although, I usually prefer enzyme peels over scrubs, this one is rather gentle. I’d say it’s spot on, not too “scrubby” but just good enough to exfoliate the skin.

    I also like the lovely orange scent, which is a nice touch; this is especially awesome in the mornings when you are still half-asleep since it does help to wake up, in a way.

    I personally wouldn’t (and don’t) use this product on a daily basis, in fact, it shouldn’t be used daily! But maybe several times a week, especially when you don’t have time for the extra steps in the cleansing routine.

    This is yet another great cleanser from Clarins.  Next time I plan to get Gentle Peeling Smooth Away Cream or Gentle Refiner Exfoliating Cream with Microbeads , as I haven’t tried those two yet.

    Unfortunately, I don’t have the list of the ingredients, the key ones, according to Clarins are:  Orange extract, Moringa Seed extract,  Gentle Silica Microbeads.

    The price is £20/$35 for 125 ml

    Clarins Extra-Comfort Cleansing Cream for Dry and Sensitive Skin Review. Rave

  • Perfumer Thomas Fontaine About Jean Patou

    5e9c1 o.20229 Perfumer Thomas Fontaine About Jean Patou

    Thomas Fontaine: I was invited to Jean Patou by the new owners of the brand, English company Designer Parfums Ltd., based in London. It seems like Procter Gamble did not know what to do with Jean Patou brand. They bought it aiming for another famous brand with great marketing potential which belonged to the Patou portfolio at the moment —namely Lacoste Parfums. So they kept Lacoste and sold Jean Patou—as PG seemed to have no idea how to treat and develop such an historical heritage and high-luxury brand as Jean Patou. Designer Parfums Ltd. also owns perfume brands such as Parfums Scherrer Paris and Worth Paris, and some younger brands: Etienne Aigner, Agent Provocateur, Ghost.

    5e9c1 o.20230 Perfumer Thomas Fontaine About Jean Patou


    Serguey Borisov: What is your area of responsibility? Do you work for Aigner or Agent Provocateur as well?
     

    Thomas Fontaine: Mostly I’m responsible for all the Jean Patou perfume development as the in-house perfumer. But I’m also creating for other brands: Ghost, Jean-Louis Scherrer—in that case, as a competitor with all the perfumers who want to participate in the bids for these brands. Like, for example, I created the new feminine Aigner perfume which is to launch soon. In Jean Patou, it’s different because I’m in charge of everything concerning perfume.


    Serguey Borisov: Do you have a big team?
     

    Thomas Fontaine: No. In fact here you have seen them all: my assistant, me and Bruno Cottard, my boss, he’s a vice-president—that’s our entire team.


    Serguey Borisov: Please tell us about the results of your efforts.
     

    Thomas Fontaine: First of all, the Big Three of Jean Patou— Sublime, 1000 and Joy—are on the market now. And when I arrived at Jean Patou, they were my first job—to organize the new production of them. During the Procter Gamble period, everything was produced in the United Kingdom, and now it has come back to France. The concentrate is made in Grasse again, the glass is coming from Verreries Brosse, Normandy and the bottles are also filled in Normandy. In PG times the sources did not fit the brand image, so we changed the sourcing also, and now the concentrate is more expensive but the quality of it is much higher. That was my duty: to restore the previous quality of Jean Patou perfumes.

    5e9c1 o.20227 Perfumer Thomas Fontaine About Jean Patou

    Then, at the end of May 2013 we’re going to relaunch three other perfumes—Jean Patou pour homme, Eau de Patou and Chaldée will be on the market again. The bottles will be of the same simple design that recalls Ma Collection Jean Patou. The first salespoint will be here, in our flagship boutique at 5, rue de Castiglione, and then these perfumes will be presented in a very limited number of selected department stores worldwide. Like Bergdorf Goodman in the USA, maybe Harrods in London, and we are going to choose places in Dubai and Russia.


    Serguey Borisov: Could you describe the three new perfumes?
     

    Thomas Fontaine: The first perfume, Chaldée, was originally created in 1927, and it was originally Huile de Chaldée, a tanning oil. Just remember that Jean Patou as a designer created his own company just before World War I, and he began to develop his company right after the war, in 1919—after he spent four years in the trenches! He was the first designer who created a lot of new things that fit his time—sportswear, swimsuits; he created polo shirts and tennis skirts for tennis champion Suzanne Lenglen. Jean Patou begin to work for La Garçonne. You know, right after WWI we had a huge emancipation movement and the scandalous novel of that same name by Victor Margueritte, which defined the tastes of women at the time, was published in 1922. Flappers, those free young women of the 20s, wore short skirts and excessive makeup, bobbed their hair, listened to jazz music, smoked and were quite free in casual sex. So Jean Patou created fashion that inspired that movement.


    Serguey Borisov: Describing that flapper fashion and era, historians usually talk about Chanel…
     

    Thomas Fontaine: Yes, Jean Patou and Gabrielle Chanel were contemporaries, they did the same business and they hated each other. Because Coco Chanel was an absolutely free woman, and Jean Patou was a real man with a magnetic aura—they were very polarized people. And most of all they were competitors in business—Jean Patou had made the first knitted swimsuit and designer’s ties, he popularized cardigans, she also was the first to make some things … By the way, Ralph Lauren was inspired a lot by Jean Patou fashions and it brought him huge success! Remember Ralph Lauren`s logo, the polo player? Jean Patou was the first who put the monogram ‘JP’ on his polo shirts! But let`s come back to Chaldée. One day, Jean Patou found out that people at the Riviera spent a lot of time by the sea—they swam, they suntanned, they enjoyed their time by the sea—he even opened his boutique for bathing-dresses in Deauville in 1924. So he asked his perfumer to create a perfumed tanning oil, Huile de Chaldée. Chaldée for Chaldea, the country of Sumer in Babylonia where beautiful golden-skinned women lived. And the perfumer—Henry Almeras—created the perfume around narcissus, orange flower, and vanilla.


    Serguey Borisov: Was it made fragrant to mask the unpleasant smell of its active ingredients?
     

    Thomas Fontaine: No, no. There were no sun-protecting or tanning agents—it was simply pure castor oil that was perfumed just to smell nice. And people used it on the beach because of its great smell! After its great success Jean Patou decided to launch a perfume with the same smell, to remind people of summers by the sea. (And by the way, Ambre Solaire sppeared just because of the success of Huile de Chaldée—the only difference was that L’Oréal put some benzyl salicylate into it for some sun-protection effect.)

    5e9c1 o.20233 Perfumer Thomas Fontaine About Jean Patou


    Serguey Borisov: In your new, relaunched Chaldée fragrance, you also used only those notes (Narcissus absolute, fleur d’orange and vanilla)? Yes, there seems a huge amount of narcissus absolute here and it’s not as sweet as Chaldée1984. Sooo animalic…
     

    Thomas Fontaine: Yes, its formula has been changed due to new regulations that have emerged since then—but also what you smell now is not fresh and new Chaldée1984, but the 30-year-old juice that has undergone almost 30 years of maceration (let’s assume that you stored the perfume perfectly and never opened it). And that’s crucial for the perfume that has such a large amount of natural oils and absolutes in it—Jean Patou perfumes always have a lot of naturals in their compositions and they evolve over time! It’s the same thing as with a fine Bordeaux—if you drink it 15 years later, it’ll taste and smell different. And perfume (like wine) is very sensitive to storage conditions. The Bordeaux you should keep in a cellar—no light, in a well-sealed bottle. Fragrances are not kept in such great conditions—light, temperature changes, humidity, etc.—and are they really left unopened for 30 years?


    Serguey Borisov: The second new relaunched perfume is Eau de Patou. Is it a clean citrus eau de cologne, as it was?
     

    Thomas Fontaine: Not a cologne, it’s an eau fraîche. It’s very hesperidic of course, green and fresh, with a clean aldehydic feeling. Lemons and petitgrains, very fresh but not aggressive, it reminds us of its era, the 1970s. The formula is still the very same and that’s a great green citrus fragrance. Citruses are ever-green in modern perfumery, they are the origin of perfumery. It was chosen from Jean Patou’s heritage as something that we could address to men and women likewise, like something unisex. As you know, most Jean Patou perfumes were addressed to women.

    959ed o.20234 Perfumer Thomas Fontaine About Jean Patou


    Serguey Borisov: And the third one is the great Jean Patou Pour Homme… [sniffs]. It’s fruity, caressing and the very tender fragrance of a gentleman who knows how to treat women… am I correct?
     

    Thomas Fontaine: Yes, you are describing it right… For us it was absolutely obvious that we were going to relaunch Patou pour Homme. We needed some masculine fragrance to relaunch—and I do believe that it’s better to relaunch something from the 80s than from the 90s (like Voyageur). You can smell vanilla, lavender and fir balsam here also—it gives the sweet fruity-sugary and strawberry note to the perfume.


    Serguey Borisov: I believe that you need some special principles in order to maintain the heritage of such an historical perfume house… Could you share them?
     

    Thomas Fontaine: First of all, I have to be very strict and careful about the quality of the natural materials. We are not just luxe, we are one of those perfume houses which can suit all those superlative words. When we choose raw materials, I have to choose the very best ones. Next month, in May, I will travel to Grasse to choose the best oils from the rose de mai crop. The quality is crucial for us—for example, our perfume Joy does mostly consist of natural and very expensive Jasmine and Rose oils from Grasse, and both of those products have very specific and original qualities. When we get them I have to be sure that we get the best oils that would meet Jean Patou’s standards for excellence. Of course, we have our own plantations, and sometimes when it’s not enough, we try to buy more from the other producers of Grasse. But if their quality is not high enough for Joy, we just limit our production to a smaller scale. And sure, we control all stages of the production operations—from gathering of the flowers to storage of the prepapred oils. And we do all these same things with every natural and synthetic material—if we have osmanthus from China in 1000 de Patou, I have to compare products from different suppliers and be sure that we got the best osmanthus absolute available. Sourcing is a key element for our brand.


    Serguey Borisov: Joy was at one time the most expensive perfume in the world. How is it now?
     

    959ed o.20235 Perfumer Thomas Fontaine About Jean Patou

    Thomas Fontaine: It still is. Not at the selling price—forget about “the most expensive perfume.” In French it was a words game: Le Parfum le plus cher—which could mean not only the costliest, but also the most beloved perfume. The most expensive Jean Patou products now are the small 1 oz.  Baccarat bottles of Joy, at 1200 euros per bottle. It is not the most expensive product on the market , but believe me—regarding the cost of its concentrate, it’s still the most expensive thing. Normal jasmine could cost you between 5,000 and 10,000 euros per kilo, and jasmine of Grasse will cost you 80,000 euros per kilo! It’s one of the most expensive raw materials in the world! Nobody can use such an expensive raw material, except us.


    Serguey Borisov: What are the plans for the future?
     

    Thomas Fontaine: Yes, I’m working now on the next new perfume of Jean Patou. It’s not the time to reveal the secret. I cannot tell you the name or many details. All that I can tell  you for now: it will be a feminine perfume, it’s going to be a Grand Floral, and I’m going to make it as gorgeous as the Big Three. And it will be launched in the same iconic Jean Patou octagonal crystal bottle created by Louis Sue and Andre Mare, who were the designers of Jean Patou for a long time. Their company Française des Arts had created and decorated all the buildings of Jean Patou: homes, offices, showrooms, etc. And of course they created the architectural design of this bottle, which is as famous as Chanel’s, so we will keep it for all the new perfumes to be created, and for the bespoke perfumes also. And then, next year, we want to relaunch three more Jean Patou perfumes from the past. I’m now working on those projects, and there are more than just three from which to choose. The first three—Chaldée, Eau de Patou and Jean Patou pour homme—were easy to choose; now the choice is much harder.

    959ed o.20228 Perfumer Thomas Fontaine About Jean Patou

    Photo by Serguey Borisov

    959ed o.17049 Perfumer Thomas Fontaine About Jean Patou

     

    Serguey Borisov

    Serguey Borisov has been known in the Internet world of perfume under the nickname moon_fish for more than 10 years. Now he writes about perfumes for GQ.ru and Vogue.ru, and contributes on the subject for glossy magazines.

     

     

     

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